In the heart of Paris, a few metres from Saint-Eustache, one of the most impressive churches in the city, and surrounded by the reconstruction of Les Halles, the site of a traditional market place dating from the 12th century, sits the incredible 70 tonne sandstone sculpture consisting of a head and a hand cupped for listening. L’Écoute, or Listening was created by Henri de Miller for the city of Paris in 1986. It has become as popular as Vancouver’s A-maze-ing Laughter, one of Paris’s most photographed pieces of art, loved by all age groups who pose for pictures and climb all over it. And like the figures in A-maze-ing Laughter, it may have a more subtle effect than just providing amusement. The sculpture exudes a tranquility that infuses its admirers. They can experience a refuge of peace amidst the fast-paced urbanism of Paris. In fact, that is one the extended purposes of the redevelopment of Les Halles.
As early as 1183, this bustling marketplace was enlarged and sheltered for the many merchants who gathered there to sell their goods. It underwent many improvements but perhaps the most famous was the massive glass and iron buildings designed by architect Victor Ballard in the mid-19th century and immortalized by Émile Zola in his 1873 novel, Le Ventre de Paris – “The Belly of Paris.” Sadly, by 1970, the market economy had evolved and the centuries old success of Les Halles diminished. As well, many of its famous buildings were in disrepair, so these were destroyed except for two reconstructed elsewhere. The completion of Châtelet-Les-Halles, Paris’s new urban railway hub in 1977 gave renewed life to the area and the Forum des Halles, a partially underground commercial and shopping centre, opened in 1979. This included a 4 hectare public garden. Unfortunately, there was much controversy over the design, so currently there is a massive ongoing reconstruction of the Forum. The new design will feature a refurbished shopping centre and more cultural activities, greater emphasis on green space, improved pedestrian walkways and better access to the underground rail and metro station. It is slated to become “an oasis of calm in the midst of the city.”
Meanwhile L’Écoute is absorbing all of these changes, perhaps reflecting on the past glory of Saint-Eustache, once attended by royalty, statesmen and famous artists. The church was originally built in 1532 on the site of a church from the early 13th century designed to serve the workers of Les Halles. L’Écoute has also absorbed all the changes of the vibrant more than 800 year history of Les Halles and is patiently anticipating the new developments unfolding.
This photo was taken on a recent European trip by the author and photographer.
Don Richardson
